![]() ![]() The torque spec on the master cylinder's mounting bolts is usually between 35 and 45 foot pounds. Once the mounting bolts have been fully tightened use a line wrench to put the final tighten on the brake lines. If the fluid runs completely out of the master it will need to be re-bled. Never allow the brake fluid to drain completely out of the master. Use a regular wrench to snug up the lines to stop the master from leaking additional fluid. ![]() While the master is still a little loose reinstall the brake lines, this will help in the line installation. Slide the master back over the booster studs and reinstall the mounting nuts finger tight. Use a shop towel to help guard against paint damage as you reinstall the brake master back into the car. A small amount of fluid will start to leak out. Once completed remove the bleeder kit and reinstall the reservoir cap. Refill the reservoir as needed to retain the fluid level. Continue this operation until no air bubbles are present. Once the plunger is completely in release the screwdriver (slowly) which will draw fluid into the master as you watch the brake fluid level go down in the reservoir. Air bubbles will start to come out of the rubber lines inside the reservoir as you press inward. Now start pushing the plunger into the master. Use a large Phillips screw driver and place it at the rear of the master and into the plunger. Fill the master reservoir with brake fluid. Make sure the lines are far enough into the reservoir as to not suck in air. Then install the master cylinder bleeder kit which is two or four plastic fittings and rubber hoses which will be connected to the fittings and then routed back into the fluid reservoir. Remove the dust caps that cover the line holes of the master. Then remove the fluid lid of the reservoir. Hold the master cylinder in a vise so it doesn't move. Reinstall the New Master Cylinder: Before the new master cylinder can be installed it must be bench bled. ![]()
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December 2022
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